Finished Sewing Projects

You're a Wizard Yari, or Part II of the Summer of Basics

August 25, 2018

My second project for the Summer of Basic was going to be a linen jumpsuit and I went with the Yari jumpsuit by True Bias. My goal for the Summer of Basics was to make some hot weather clothing as the two unusually hot months before the challenge started proved I was in dire need of that. Well folks, that was definitely the right decision as it has been scorchingly hot the whole summer!

The Yari jumpsuit comes in four views: short versus tapered pants, and sleeveless versus extended sleeve. This can be mixed and matched and additionally you can add or leave off d-rings to add waist definition. The Yari was released at the beginning of summer, right when I first started to think about what I wanted to make for the Summer of Basics. Initially I thought to make the Roberts collection jumpsuit, but when True Bias released Yari, I switched to this one, because I love the seventies inspired style-lines and the more summer-suitable options it came in. Also - it's got pockets, super stylish pockets!

I went with the shorter version with a sleeve band. I opted to add the d-rings at the waist, to add some visual interest and also to have the option to decide how much waist definition I want. When I've had a good muffin week I can always just loosen that shit up, or just let them hang there. I've included photo's with the bands tightened and loose so you can see the difference in look and fit. I thought I would prefer the "waist defining" look, but after looking at the photos I think I like both equally well.

Putting together the jumpsuit does take a bit more time than your average jumpsuit. Okay, so to be fair that's just my guess because this is my first jumpsuit, but based on how long it takes me to sew other stuff, the Yari just is built up of so many smaller pieces of fabric with lots of seams as well as lots of top stitching. Seeing it all come together was very soothing though, and I thoroughly enjoyed it. It totally worked as an incentive to keep stitching. I also quite enjoy top stitching, so this was awesome pattern for me.

I knew I wanted to make it in a linen fabric from the onset, but I debated for a while which colour to go for. I was really drawn to the rusty orange one of the samples is also made in. Eventually I ordered this dark petrol green linen, which when it arrived was a bit more "dark green" than "petrol", but I think I like this even better. I also got these brass hand-hammered look buttons that I'm super pleased with. I'm very happy with the quality of this linen as well, my limited experience with linen taught me that the difference between linen quality can differ quite spectacularly. The fabric was nice to work with, wears really nicely. This is 100% linen and there definitely are some wrinkles in here, but that is something that I just expect and roll with when working with linen.

I didn't do any length modifications. The pattern is drafted for someone who is 5.5" tall, which is taller than I am, but I figured I could always take of a smidge more of the shorts if I needed to. I'm glad I went with this approach though, because this is the length as per pattern and I'm not sure how comfortable I'd be if it where shorter. 

So some real talk here. I'm super pleased with the jumpsuit, technically it's the best made garment I've ever made, it looks exactly like I envisioned and I'm also proud of my sewing on this. That's said, a garment like this is also a bit out of my comfort zone, and I needed to get used to wearing it out of the house. It's not just the jumpsuit in itself, which I mostly still try to figure out how to style best.  After wearing it I found that it's also the shorts that I need to get use to. I don't really wear shorts and need to get used to seeing all that leg out there when I look down! I think this feeling will pass though, with a couple of times of wear. Once I get a bit more used to it I think this might well become a staple of my summer wardrobe. Anyway, for my Summer of Basics, getting out of my comfort zone and experimenting a bit was the point of participating, so... mission accomplished? 

I made this jumpsuit back in July and these pictures were taken in another bout of 30+ degrees weather that we've had so many of this summer. I can definitely attest to it's heatwave appropriateness! The amount of leaves on the ground makes it looks a bit autumnal, but I can assure you autumn still feels like a long time away. Due to a record hot and dry summer we've had these scenes over here since the end of June and it has only worsened over the months. All of this is highly unusual over here and it is really odd to see these pictures knowing how warm it really was.

I'm currently in working on the final project for my summer of basics, which I hope to finish this weekend just before the deadline of the Summer of Basics. I'll try to post it on instagram once it done, but it will probably be a little longer before I post about it here on the blog.

See you then!

Finished Sewing Projects

Ninni-ninni-ninni Batman! - or - Part I of the Summer of Basics

August 03, 2018

My first item for the summer of basics was supposed to be the Ninni culottes by Named, and low and behold: I stuck to that plan! Here they are!

I'll be honest, when culottes made their (re)appearance in fashion and by extension in the sewing world I didn't think they were for me. I wear dresses most of the time, and just wasn't tempted to make any type of trousers. I did like their look on on other people, but it was just not something I thought I would ever sew for myself. But then came the record heat and this dry, never-ending heatwave of a summer we've been having, and I realised I needed more and more diverse summer clothing to get me through these months. That, combined with my low-key style exploration prompted me to try some things that I hadn't thought to make before.

Whether you call this loose type of pants culottes, palazzo pants or anything else, my sister-in-law calls them "wiebelbroek" - literally translated: wiggle pants. Last year when she was on holiday in Italy, and also heavily pregnant, she bought a handmade one in a shop there and came back home with buckets of enthusiasm for wiebelbroeken. (She also came back with a live baby, as some of you might remember). Her enthusiasm for wide trousers was definitely contagious as it basically planted the seed of making a pair in my head. (Her influence reaches further, as this household now only refers to any kind of loose pants as "wiebelbroek").

The Ninni-pattern has the reputation of being an easy pattern and it truly is. I finished most of this in a day, and then only had to stop because my elastic hadn't arrived yet. It turns out that 3.5 cm wide elastic is very hard to find in my city. Who knew? I went to a couple of places and watched baffled shop keepers rummage through a couple of boxes, with loads of  different sized elastics but not that elusive 3.5. I had to order some online and that took a bit longer than I expected.

While Ninni is an easy pattern, I did have to make some changes. Named patterns are designed for women whose height is more on the tall side of the lenght spectrum.

Which is great if you are tall.

I am not.

Holding the pattern pieces in front of me ensued in some hysterical giggles, as it was over full length on me. I think I took about 15 centimetres off of the length. There are no lengthening or shortening lines on the pattern, but as it is just a straight leg I took most of it off the bottom. Using a pyjama pants as a guide I also took of some at the waist, to make the crotch a little less low. 

This is a viscose (rayon) fabric. I hadn't sewn with viscose before, but I do own retail wear made with it. I'm kinda in two minds about it: both with sewing and knitting I tend to shy away from synthetic fibres because of environmental reasons, and I don't find them as comfortable as natural fibres. Viscose occupies that weird in-between state; it is at the same time natural and man-made fibre, and therefore it doesn't properly belong in either categories. I like wearing viscose: it is tied with linen as my favourite summer fabric. My options where I live regarding fabric are not as wide as in other places, particularly if you are looking to buy natural fibres on a budget: so for now I've decided to keep using viscose fabrics in my sewing.

I chose the print and colour to go for a more classic look. I was kinda weary of "Is she wearing her boyfriends swim shorts or did she make a pants from the curtains in her Airbnb?" vibes. Don't get me wrong, I like wacky prints and colours, but for some reason am really averse to them in trousers for myself. I noticed this when I was looking at retail culottes, to decide what look to go for. (Can you tell I was nervous about this, by how serious I took the planning?). I noticed that I gravitated to dark main colours and small prints so that is what I went for.

I wish I had bought more of this fabric when it was still in stock. I have zero shame in owning different things in the same print, or alternatively owning the same item in different prints if it is something that I wear a lot. I even knitted the same sweater multiple times. When I finished the culottes, I thought the print would also make an awesome Reeta Shirtdress, but alas the fabric had sold out. Oh well, just got to keep my eyes peeled for other suitable fabric!
I have been wearing them already and I have to admit I did feel a bit weird at the beginning, because it is a slight deviation of what I usually wear. I'm still trying to figure out how to best style them. Looking at the pictures, I'm more okay with how it looks than how I felt about it at the time. I guess most of it is just a matter getting used to and figuring out how to wear them with what's already in my wardrobe. I recently figured out that I don't typically like my shirts tucked in wide skirts, but while wearing these I found that I like it a lot better with culottes. I also think I might like cropped shirts or a hem-tie shirts to wear with this kinda style, so maybe I should put one of those on my to make list.

In the time it took me to get this project photographed and up on the blog I've also finished project 2 of the summer of basics and traced the pattern for my third project, which I hope to make good progress on over the weekend. So I'm quite positive about getting all 3 projects done before the end of august! My documenting of finished makes has been lacking spectacularly the past few months though, and this is actually the part that I'm most worried about. I'm glad that I finally broke through my reluctance to take finished project photos and hopefully this will give me the motivation to also document the non-summer of basics makes that have accumulated over the past months!

See you soon!

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